Day 4 - Naples to Miami

Monday, January 10, 2011


One of the things I really want to do on this trip was to see a (wild) alligator. I never imagined I'd see more than a hundred in a day, but we did. Anyway, let me start at the beginning:

La Quinta provided us with a quite elaborate continental breakfast this morning so we got off to a good start. The plan was to drive straight to the Everglades, but we made a last minute decision to pull into the Big Cypress Bend boardwalk into the Fakahatchee Strand. It was nice, but if you're pressed for time I'd skip this and wait for the Everglades.

Sandy on the boardwalk. See the strangler fig wrapped around the big tree on the left?
















There's also a pair of resident bald eagles. Here's one of them was guarding the nest.
















We stop at the Big Cypress head quarters near Everglade City and look at some of their exhibits. They also have a short boardwalk in the back that connects to the Thousand Islands. There's not a lot going on, but there's a few manatees swimming around and everyone else excited to see them. The water is dark because of the leaves in the water and we're pretty spoiled when it comes to manatee encounters, so after stretching our legs we get back in the car.

Along the way we see quite a few quirky things, like the postal office for Ochopee. The mailman was just coming to collect the mail, probably all three letters worth haha.

















These two are random pictures I took on the way to Kirby S. Storter Park (also part of Big Cypress National Preserve). It almost looks fake!




There are some picnic tables and a boardwalk leading to a small water hole where we spot a few birds and some turtles. It's now so hot that even with just shorts and a t-shirt I'm getting overheated. What a difference a day makes!

There's another visitors center for Big Cypress in Oasis and we almost drive past it, but it's a good thing we didn't because there are tons of alligators resting on the banks and in the river.

We also see some more cute birds. If you love birds this is the place for you...



Finally we make it to the Everglades and our first stop is Shark Valley. They rent bicycles and there's a tram that takes you to an observation tower, but both those options take about 2 hours (or more) and we have some other stuff planned so we decide to just go for a short walk along the main loop.

It's really crazy because there's alligators everywhere! There are signs posted about keeping at least a 15 foot distance between yourself and any wildlife, but I don't think the path is wide enough to allow that. So what happens instead; you see people strolling along with their little toddlers running free within 5 feet of enormous alligators!

The river runs parallel to the paved walkway.
















Another cute bird ... quite the fat little thing!
















Here's me posing with the gators!

On the way back to the car we take a small detour across a somewhat boring wooden walkway, called something like the Bobcat trail. The vegetation here is a lot higher and denser so it makes it harder to spot animals. I did see a few tiny lizzards that were pretty cute.


Back on the road we spot another neat caution sign (I'm fascinated with these signs, they're yellow diamonds with sometimes the craziest things to watch for). This one's for cougars!

















Finally we get to the Royal Palm visitors center. There's a lot of different things to see and do on this side of the Everglades, but because we only have so much time we go directly to the Anhinga Amble trail. This is supposed to be excellent alligator viewing, and anhingas of course!

The signs in the parking lot are more concerned with another animal; the vultures. They apparently love chewing on windshield wipers! Haha.
















View of the general area when you step outside of the visitors center. It really doesn't show how incredibly beautiful this place is ... (nothing like Shark Valley, which although impressive, is somewhat of a tourist trap.)




Luckily the vultures are all hanging out along the trail and not chewing on our rental car. (I had visions of having to return the rental car with the wipers gnawed off, but luckily they were still in one piece when we came back)

We had two very interesting interactions with the anhingas: first one of them attempted to court us by performing a wild, wing flapping, body flinging dance. Ooh baby! Sadly, I didn't have right lens on my camera so those pictures didn't come out, but I did get a good one of it giving us the crazy eye.














The other was when there was one sitting on the railing and we stopped right by it. It just stayed there and we were commenting on how cool it was when it projectile pooped and Sandy had to jump out of the way to avoid getting pooped on (I think she still got some splatter on her shoes lol). Hey, they don't say keep 15 feet between you and all wildlife for no reason!

Here's another kind of bird. For some reason his feet are bright yellow.













At the end of the boardwalk we were greeted by this incredible scene; more than 20 alligators lazing in the sun!
The funny thing is that the birds don't seem to pay any attention to the gators. They just walk right between them, stick their heads under water to look for fish and somehow manage not to get eaten.

The Anhinga trail was definitely my favorite spot of the day. So much diversity of flora and fauna within a small space and there's so much of everything. You just don't know where to look sometimes. This is on the way back to the vistors center.


In Homestead, right before you turn on the road to the Everglades is a large fruit stand called Robert Is Here. I had heard a lot of good things about it so after we saw it on the way in we made sure to stop on the way back. One word: AMAZING! If you're in the area be sure to check it out.

There's also a small petting zoo out back. Nothing terribly exiting, but this goat made me laugh ... why climb a rock if you can stand on a turtle?!















Unfortunately this is where the battery for my camera died, so until I get my underwater camera developed I won't have any more pictures from today.

Anyway, after a missed turn thanks to our GPS we made it to Key Biscayne just as the sun was setting. It was just gorgeous driving across the bridge with the sun reflecting off the tall hotels on the left, the island to the right and the sun setting behind us.

When we get to Bill Baggs Cape State Park it's 20 minutes to close so we only have to pay half the entry fee. It's a short drive to the very end of the island where we get to watch the sun sinking lower and lower ... until a park ranger drives up and tells us the park is closing in 5 minutes.

There's still quite a few people there and I don't think they'd actually close the gate on us, but this makes me a little bit nervous so we get back in the car and drive to the lighthouse. I run across the parking lot as fast as I can when suddenly there's a rush of movement to my right, followed by a lot of rustling in the bushes. My first thought is "squirrel," but then I realize that it must have been some incredibly large squirrels. When I stop I realize there's one tiny petrified raccoon still frozen in place. Awww I love raccoons! Picture unfortunately did not come out at all :-(
My camera ran out of film after I take a shot of the lighthouse (beautiful tall white building with a black top) so unfortunately there's no pictures of the four raccoons we find scrounging in the parking lot.

We're in North Miami Beach right now in a hotel room that strangely appears to sleep about 7 people?! I think it's a time share place or something because we have sitting room, a kitchen, etc. Not nearly as nice as it sounds unfortunately.

Total miles for today: 206

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Breakfast: free breakfast at the hotel
Lunch: leftover breakfast and snacks
Dinner: Thai House II
Hotel: Newport Beachside Resort

Day 3 - Clearwater to Naples

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Today's almost a total beach day. We start out at Fort De Soto state park just south of St. Petersburg. With its many facilities and miles of pristine beaches this is one of Florida's most beloved parks.

We start off the day with bagels from Panera's at North Beach. There are many cute picnic areas spread out over the park.

The sun's out but there's a biting wind blowing across the water ... no wonder there's no one here! We walk out past the restricted birding area to get to the beach.


After shelling for a while the wind drives us back to our car. Brrr, it's so cold when the wind blows! After driving for a few minutes we park the car and start hiking through the interdune area only to find a large inlet blocking our access to the beach.
















We're more succesful at the next stop; several trails with hard, packed sand lead straight to the water.
I love seeing the wind bend the dune grasses.















Sandy found this beautiful leopard crab shell.

















Fort De Soto also has a historic fort, but it is closed for repairs. You can access the pier from the same parking lot.















The shore as seen from the pier.


Did you see the tall column standing next to the tree in the last picture? This is a close up of the top:


On the way in, I'd noticed a few cars pulled off the road at an otherwise nondescript stretch of road so we decide to check it out on the way back and it turns out to be a bald eagle nesting area. I immediately spot the nest, but it's so high up in the tree that you can only see the white of its head. In Michigan we once spent an hour watching an eagle guarding its nest without it ever leaving so we had little hope of seeing it fly, but less than a minute later it leapt up and made a small survey of the area before resting to the nest.






























Our next stop is also an unplanned one; we're heading across the Bob Graham Bridge when we notice a cluster of enormous kites near the water. After driving to the other side and back we make it to a small secluded beach exploding with big, bright kites. Kite surfing is so on my list of things to do before I die!
















There are a few wind surfers as well:

















There's so many of them out on the water that it looks like they're having some kind of competition, but one of them assures us they're there "any time the wind blows." Apparently all this wind is good for something, because they say it's one of the few times they've been able to stay up for more than a minute at a time.

One of them asks me if I'd like to learn how to do it (like yeah, in a heart beat!), but it's just too cold to go out there without a wetsuit. Just my luck!

The next stop is Myakka River State Park. This is Florida's largest state park so it's impossible to see all of the park in a day, but I think we got a pretty good impression. After a quick stop at the vistors center we drive straight to the short trail leading to the canopy walkway.
















The wooden suspension bridge was the first of its kind in the United States. It's only 25' high, but there's a 75' observation tower once you reach the other side.























View from the tower:
















We continue our way along the park's scenic route when I spot two black vultures near the side of the road. And yes, it was an armadillo :-(
















Shortly after that we take a wrong turn and find ourselves at the airboat docks. We're trying to find a place to turn around when I spot an alligator floating near the boats.















Another one is resting near the water's edge.















We keep going until we reach the birdwalk area. We see two armadillos, but no interesting birds. Here's a view of the lake:



From Myakka River we drive straight down to Naples. We get there just in time to watch the sunset at Delnor Wiggins Pass State Park.


The beach is piled high with shells and Sandy's having a field day going through them.













It isn't until later that we realize one of them had a dead snail/crab inside it. Phew, what a stench!

Total miles for today: 239

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Breakfast: Panera's
Lunch: Panera's and snacks
Dinner: Capriccio (disappointing)
Hotel: La Quinta Inn Naples

Day 2 - Crystal River to Clearwater

Saturday, January 8, 2011

It's 5:30am when the alarm goes off. It's still pitch black outside by the time we reach Bird's Underwater dive shop, where we'll be going on a manatee snorkeling tour.

Here's me in my wetsuit.























After watching an instructional video on how to (legally) interact with the manatees we head out on Kings Bay. Our captain Rhonda takes us straight to the Three Sister's Springs, one of the prime manatee viewing areas. The sun's just barely risen by the time we hit the water and dang is it cold! Youd' think it'd be nice and toasty with the wetsuit ...

The water gets murkier and murkier as we approach the entrance to the springs and visibility is no more than an arm's length. Out of nowhere one darts out in front of me and I'm so startled I almost float face first into it. Yikes, they are so big!

Make sure to check out the manatee pictures in the post before this one. Playing with them was such an amazing experience ... they are so playful and loveable.
After a quick breakfast at a local joint called the Village Cafe we drive to nearby Homosassa Springs. I wasn't sure if it would be worth our time, since the manatees are one of their big attractions and we'd just spent hours playing with them, but it was great. This was the first time I got to use my new zoom lens so I went a little bit overboard taking pictures of the animals.

All the animals in the park are native to Florida, except for Lu the hippopotamus. The park used to house all kinds of exotic animals, but after the state bought it they were all relocated. Finding a new home for Lu turned out to be impossible so Lu was made an honorary Floridian so he could stay at the park.
















Lu's next pond neighbor, one of the alligators:
The red fox takes a nap:
















There are also a few aviaries. Here's one of the owls:

America's national bird ... the bald eagle:

My new camera let's me take pictures from behind wire fences. So cool! Here's one of the cougars:
Flamingos!


It took us a while to find the bobcats, but they were snuggled up in the log.

There's also a small reptile building. These little guys were so cute!



Okay, so I do have one manatee picture for you. Here's a couple of them resting in the spring right outside the park.


The park also has an underwater viewing area that's built right over top of the largest spring in the park. The fish seem to be drawn to it ... maybe for warmth?




























We time it just right so that we're the first people on the boat on the way back. I pick the bench closest to the front of the boat so I can take some pictures on the way back to the visitors center. An adorable little raccoon was sitting right at the water's edge, but we passed it before I had a chance to take a picture :-(

Here's a nice one of the scenery.
















Our animal encounters did not stop there. We were driving to our next destination when I glimped something moving near the shoulder of the road. "Stop the car!!" Sandy's getting very good at screeching to a halt on the shoulder of the road haha.

My first armadillo! Awww.


Tarpon Springs is a Greek community famous for it's sponge diving history. My guidebook recommend the free Spongeorama (although it did call it "campy"), but there really wasn't much worth seeing. It's really a souvenir shop that shows an old movie about the history of sponge diving.

We decide to go for a short walk along the docks. Most of the boats moored here are sponge fishing boats. See the sponges?

There doesn't appear to be much else to do in the area so we ask one of the locals to direct us to a nearby beach where we can watch the sun set. Less than 10 minutes later we make it to Sunset Beach Park. It's really just a sliver of land jutting into the bay, but what a beautiful place to watch the sky change colors!

One more for good measure:



Random abandoned old church on the way back to town














We head back to Tarpon Springs for dinner where we have suberb authentic Greek cuisine at Mykonos. I'm no fan of lamb, but that was the best gyros either of us has ever had and the chicken lemon soup with orzo was a very pleasant surprise.

Before checking into the hotel we make one last stop at the local greyhound race track, Derby Lane. Admission is free and after watching three races we leave with $6.40 in earnings (Sandy's, not mine). It was fun to watch them chase the "bunny" around the track, but I think I'll stick with ponies!

Total miles for today: 100

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Late breakfast: Village Cafe
Dinner: Mykonos
Hotel: Holiday Inn Select St. Petersburg Airport